Fabric care guide.
Natural fibre doesn't wear out. It wears in. Two minutes, years added.
Synthetic clothing is low-maintenance because it's built to be disposable: wash it hot, tumble it dry, replace it in a year.
Natural fibre is alive in a way plastic isn't. It breathes, moves with heat and water, and softens the more you wear it. But when cared for properly, it doesn't wear out. It wears in.
Cotton twill — diagonal weave
The essentials Most of it comes down to three habits.
Keep it cool.
Heat is what damages natural fibre. Hot water and hot dryers shrink and weaken it. A cold wash is the most protective thing you can do.
Be gentle.
Less agitation, slower spins, no wringing. Friction causes shrinkage and pilling.
Skip the shortcuts.
No bleach, no fabric softener. Softener coats natural fibre in a waxy film that ruins the breathability you paid for.
Air between wears. It's enough.
The habit nobody mentions Wash less than you've been taught to.
Synthetics trap sweat and bacteria against the fibre, so they start to smell fast — and we've all been trained to wash often because of it. Natural fibres are the opposite. Wool, silk and cashmere are naturally antimicrobial and resist odour on their own; cotton and linen breathe instead of holding smell.
Most of the time a piece doesn't actually need washing. It needs airing. Every wash is wear and tear.
Hang it somewhere with open airflow overnight and it'll be refreshed. Every wash is wear and tear, so airing between wears isn't lazy. It's how these pieces last for years instead of seasons.
A note on creasing Natural fibre creases, and that's normal.
Linen especially will crumple, and most types of cotton too. It's the fabric behaving like a natural material, not a flaw. Steam or press it if you like crisp, or wear the texture as it is. Plastic holds a permanent shape because it's plastic.
Linen — it creases. That's the point.
One last thing Shrinkage.
Natural fibre moves a little the first time it meets water — most of any shrinkage happens on the very first wash, then settles for good. This is normal, and we've already accounted for it in how our pieces are cut, so a cold, gentle wash keeps them true to size.
It's the heat — hot water, hot dryers — that causes the shrinkage people fear, not washing itself. Keep it cool and there are no surprises.
Read the one you own. Two minutes, years added.
Cotton Twill
Cotton Twill
The workhorseHard-wearing and hard to get wrong. Twill is cotton woven on a diagonal — the same structure as denim — so it's stronger and drapes heavier than a flat weave. Its one weakness is heat. Keep it cool and it holds for years.
- Wash cold, gentle or normal cycle, turned inside out to protect the colour. Mild liquid detergent, no softener.
- Dry on the air ideally. If you insist on tumble drying: low heat and pull it out slightly damp. Overdrying is where shrinkage happens.
- Iron hot if you want it crisp. Inside out, slightly damp, to avoid surface shine.
Cold wash, air dry, and twill will outlast almost everything you own.
Linen
Linen
The classicAges beautifully. Starts crisp, softens into something you'll live in. Spun from flax — stronger than cotton, naturally cooling, and it improves with every wash instead of wearing out.
New linen feels structured; don't fight it. It relaxes with wear and water into a soft, lived-in drape.
- Wash cool (30°C or below), gentle cycle, with room to move. Only with linen or light fabrics. Never softener — linen softens on its own.
- Soften faster with a splash of white vinegar in the rinse (the smell vanishes as it dries), and by wearing it often.
- Dry on the air with a little breeze. Fold rather than hang for long storage — it stretches on the hanger.
- Crease freely, or iron damp on medium-high, reverse side.
Cool wash, embrace the wrinkle, and linen rewards you for decades.
Silk
Silk
The diva — but a predictable oneGentle keeps it luminous. Silk is a protein fibre, closer to your own hair than to any plant — which is why it feels the way it does, and why ordinary detergent slowly destroys it.
Ours is a very fine silk. Keep it away from rough surfaces, rings, and Velcro and it stays flawless. Air between wears — silk rarely needs real washing.
- Wash by hand: cool-to-lukewarm water, pH-neutral silk detergent or baby shampoo. Never enzyme detergent or bleach.
- Handle wet silk carefully — it's weakest when wet. Swish gently, never scrub, twist or wring. Rinse until the water runs clear.
- Machine only if the label allows: mesh bag, delicate cycle, cold, lowest spin.
- Dry flat on a towel, out of direct sunlight. Steam, don't iron. If ironing: lowest heat, slightly damp.
Cool water, pH-neutral, never wring, mind the snags.
Cashmere & Wool
Cashmere & Wool
Dry clean when you canProtein-based animal fibre, delicate and easily distorted when wet. Dry cleaning is the safest way to keep the shape and hand intact.
Two harmless quirks: pilling at friction points is normal in good cashmere and settles after the first few wears; moths are a storage issue with an easy fix.
The golden rule: wool is naturally antibacterial. Wash every 8–10 wears at most. Air between wears and most of the time it won't need cleaning at all. Over-cleaning is what wears cashmere out.
- Hand wash only, cool water (never above 30°C), wool/cashmere detergent or baby shampoo, turned inside out.
- Soak 5–10 minutes with a gentle swish. Never scrub, twist or wring — wet cashmere stretches and distorts easily.
- Rinse in cool water of the same temperature until it runs clear.
- Dry flat, reshaped by hand — never hang. Press the water out with a towel. Never tumble.
- De-pill with a cashmere comb, gently, in one direction. Store clean and folded in a breathable cotton bag. Cedar or lavender keeps moths away.
Dry clean when you can, wash rarely by hand if you must, dry flat, store clean and folded.
Good fabric isn't fragile — it's honest. It tells you what it needs and gives back everything you put in. A little cold water, a little patience, and these are the pieces you'll still reach for in ten years.
Always follow the care label on your specific piece.